Japan and Me
Living in a Japan: the country that lives in the “and”
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Claire Ghyselen
Representative for Japan
Wallonia Export-Investment Agency
When I first came to Japan, in 1988, my mind was a white board, ready to absorb new discoveries. Japan touched my mind, and moved my soul.
Let me invite you into my journey in Japan. We will start with my youth exchange year in Tokyo and why this special year was the driver of my career choices. Since then, Japan has continued to fascinate me, because it’s nation lives in the “and”. In 1988, when I first came to Tokyo, I was welcomed by homestay families who considered my like the daughter of the family. They taught me the importance of using polite language, and how to write in Japanese. Remember, it’s 1988, there is nearly no roman letters in the city. They taught me how to use chopsticks and how to sew a yukata. They taught me to take the trains, and how to enjoy the many festivals. They taught me that sincere concern, engagement and compassion are universal values that do not need linguistic catalysis and that you should look hard behind appearances. They also taught me that my experience should not be a source of nostalgia but a source of strength.
During that youth exchange year, I also realised that, I, and many of my Belgian friends, knew so little about Japan, and Tokyo. We knew only the clichés of judo champions, robust cars, gameboys and walkmen. On the other hand, coming from Belgium was quite a rarity. Which state in the US did you say you came from? People in Tokyo knew so little about my country.
I wanted my mind to be like a sponge. As it happened, so was my soul. Japan touched me in such a way that, after one year of homestay, I decided I wanted to be a bridge between my country and Japan.
Now that I have unveiled the reason of my career choice, Economic and Commercial Attaché for my country, I will try to give you a glimpse of why Japan is so fascinating. It did not came as a revelation one morning. On the contrary, it took quite a long time before I could put it into words: Japan is a nation full of paradox and each of them comes like a surprise. It is the country of the “and”.
My first “and” came with Japan classical literature: ancient “and” contemporary. In the 10th century, all the ingredients for a page-turner are there: impossible loves, extremely bad guys, mean and jealous women ready to kill, lots of actions, and even spirits affecting the life of our heroes. Humor is never far: the description of Yugao, in the Tale of the Genji - 10th century - is hilarious. The poor women has a poor complexion and a huge and red nose. She is so ugly that the Prince of Genji visits her only at night!
Many “old” couples live the “and” every day. They had a marriage arranged and they are in love. I’ve met couples celebrating their 60 years of marriage. They met twice before marriage and today, the husband is miming playing the violin while his wife is smiling with stars in the eye! They are 80 years old and young lovers!
Efficiency is no vain word here. The city, your home, everything is organised with a purpose. Every small technology evolution is advertised as the ultimate good for humanity. Even such mondane thing as toilet paper is through-fully researched: you find waterproofed toilet paper for washlet users. And yet, there are the ultimate useless must-haves such as the “puchi puchi” toy that is supposed to help you release stress when you do not have packing bubble plastic with you. You can make the bubbles explode endlessly. It’s useless because somehow, you do not get that emotional release. Contrary to a roll of plastic wrapping, it fits in your handbag. Efficiency, did you say?
A quick glimpse at any drugstore’s huge choice of deodorants, special soaps, and fragrances for clothes will convince you that anything related to biological function of the body should be under control. On the other h-and, department stores have managed to make boudoirs and relaxing space out of their toilets, a place where you are supposed to hide away in case of need.
The and society is not always pleasant of course.
Japanese people can queue for hours to get what they want: a sign from an idol, some lottery tickets, special bread, whatever, they are patient, and they can get so irritated when they are not waitered fast enough. Where is my coffee? I’ve been waiting for 1.5 second!
The government can be listening to the public voice regarding the Olympic Stadium and ignoring the public voice when it comes to passing the security related bills with a sledgehammer. It’s bordering schizophrenia.
You care for your health, pay attention to your calorie intake, run every day, and smoke heavily in the bistrot, with lots of beer and junk food.
I will not leave you with the Queen of Spade because after all, Alice’s Wonderland was indeed full of wonders and you can really appreciate the good only if you have know what is amiss.
In temples and shrines, tradition is appropriated by today’s generation. Visit any temple or shrine in Kyoto and you are immersed in rock-solid tradition and in its modern interpretation, like the manga style ex voto board of Fushimi.
Climbing the stairs to Fushimi and discovering rock and roll ex voto!
In the street, everyone looks elegant and neat. When external appearances are important and regulated by occasions, fashion comes handy. I just wonder how men and women manage to care so much for their appearance and have a natural and all-day fresh look all the same, even with blond hair!
Two fashionistas. They are so beautiful! I love the Santiag boots with the kimono and the Amy Whinehouse look of the young lady.
I could navigate you further in the and-world, unveiling the urban electric pillar and its urban poetry. Everyday, Japan lets me discover something new and surprising and it makes me feel fortunate and happy to live in Tokyo.
Urban poetry: beauty is hidden everywhere. It’s up to you to see it.