Love Letter from Brussels
O-MO-TE-NA-SHI Again: The World of Sake (No.11) Part 2
9th of March 2015
Continuing from the last time, this is the second and last special issue about Japanese sake. This time, I will explain about the different varieties and flavors of sake.
Put simply, there are many varieties.Sake, first of all, is classified according to its ingredients and brewing method.
When talking about ingredients, there are two main types, namely “Junmaishu”, made only from rice and malted rice, and other sake which contains distilled alcohol. When talking about the brewing method, three main varieties can be distinguished according to how much of the original rice grain has been polished in order to release a good aroma. There is Dai-Ginjoshu, containing rice which has been milled until 50% or less of the rice grain remains, Ginjoshu, containing rice polished until 60% or less remains, and finally there is a third category with the remaining sake that does not belong to the other two categories.
With these 2 types x 3 varieties, Japanese sake is more or less divided into 6 varieties, namely Junmai-Dai-Ginjoshu, Junmai-Ginjoshu, Junmaishu, Dai-Ginjoshu, Ginjoshu and Honjozoshu. How do these six varieties differ in flavor? In general, it is said that Ginjoshu has an elegant and refreshing taste, Junmaishu has a full-bodied and rich flavor suited for “atsukan” (hot sake) and Honjozoshu is very aromatic and fresh. However, if you ask my personal opinion, the flavors even differ according to the brewer and the sake rice; I think it is therefore impossible to say that only the variety is decisive for the flavor. Nevertheless, to a certain degree there is a connection between the variety and the way of drinking it. Japanese sake can be drunk in three ways: cold, at room temperature or hot (the temperature can range from hot to lukewarm). Surely, one would not serve an aromatic Ginjoshu hot (atsukan). Junmaishu is normally good for serving warmed or at room temperature. Recently, it says on each bottle of sake what way of drinking is most suitable, so please consult the label.
Apart from the above-stated classification, let me also explain a little about the seasonal sake that has come out on the market recently. Nowadays sake can be made at any time of the year, but originally it was made during the cold season. Since recent times, brewing starts beginning of October, and at the earliest, the sake can be ready for shipping in one month, but nevertheless the new sake brewed from December onwards into the New Year is wonderful. This sake is now often sold under the label ‘Shinshu Shiboritate’ (lit. “Freshly Pressed New Sake”). It is sake with a fresh and tingly taste. Among this type of sake there is also what is called the “Arabashiri”, the first bit of sake of the batch. In the past you had to go to the brewery to drink it, but recently it can be obtained at sake shops.
“Namazake” is good on a hot summer’s day. Sake that is not heated during the brewing process (unpasteurized sake) is called Namazake. You can enjoy its fresh and fruity flavor.
“Hiyaoroshi” in autumn is superb. Hiyaoroshi-sake is pasteurized once in early spring and then left to ripe in a tank during summer to be drunk -without heating again- in autumn. The umami flavor increases by ripening and this sake goes well with fragrant autumn dishes.
Next are the three flavor indicators. These are usually written on the label. Knowing these will allow you to get a general idea of the flavor just by looking at the label. If you try different kinds and know which marker corresponds with your favorite flavor, selecting sake will become easier, don’t you think? However, rather than having preconceived notions based on these indicators, I actually think that it is more fun to try many different types of sake.
First, there is the Sake Meter Value (“Nihonshu-Do”). This can be either positive or negative, and in general the more positive the number is, the less sugar the sake contains and therefore the drier it tastes. On the other hand, the more negative the number is, the more sugar it contains and the sweeter it tastes.
Next is the acidity level (“San-Do”). This indicates the amount of various acids. In general, the higher the acidity level, the more full-bodied it tastes. The lower the level, the lighter it will taste. Furthermore, if the Sake Meter Value is the same, the higher the acidity level, the drier it tastes and the lower the sweeter. The acidity level is roughly between 0.5 and 2.5, so one can say that 1.5 is more or less in the middle.
Lastly, in addition to acidity, sometimes the amino acid level is indicated (Amino-San-Do”). The higher the level of amino acids, the richer and full-bodied the flavor will be, yet when it is low the flavor will be lighter.
When combining these, sake can be divided into four groups in general: rich and dry, rich and sweet, elegant and dry, and finally elegant and sweet. However, although I am repeating myself, there are individual differences and the taste can change according to one’s physical condition or according to the climate on that particular day. In any case, I recommend you to try various sakes and to have several favorite brands.
Finally, let me tell you a bit about “Sake Samurai”. Presently, sake is enjoyed throughout the world, and it is not an overstatement to say that this is the fruit of the efforts of people who up until now have been able to explain about the varieties and ways of drinking sake in a foreign language. One group of such people is called “Sake Samurai”. This organization has an official homepage, organizes its own competitions and transmits information about sake abroad. The sake which I serve at my residence also has received awards in these competitions. If you would like to learn more about sake, please have a look at the Sake Samurai homepage. http://www.sakesamurai.jp
Let me add some personal publicity to close this special edition. I was born in a place called Higashi-hiroshima-shi in Hiroshima Prefecture. 30 minutes by train from Hiroshima-shi there is a town which has since long been known for making sake. The old brewery buildings remain in town and brewery tours are being organized. Nowadays there are nine brewers, and one of them is known for the sake that was drunk by president Obama in a sushi restaurant during his visit to Japan last year, but apart from that there are many unique breweries such as a brewery that makes one of my favorite Junmaishu. Every year, during a weekend in the first half of October, a “Sake Festival” is held. Not only breweries and the town of Saijo can be visited, there is also a corner where you can taste and compare over 1.000 brands of sake from all over Japan, with a lot of sake fans from all over the country. The Sake Festival will be held on the 11th and 12th of October this year, so have fun. The brewers of Saijo are also putting effort into promoting sales abroad. Their homepage can be read in English, French and German, so by all means, do have a look. The English homepage address is as follows: http://saijosake.com/index.html